What Happens When My Airbags Deploy?

What Happens When My Airbags Deploy

Most modern cars are equipped with airbags and many have them located throughout the car. An airbag is known as a passive restraint as they deploy without the driver or passenger having to do anything. This is unlike a seatbelt that must be buckled by the person in the seat. Some cars do have a disarming mechanism for safety reasons. Airbags can be dangerous for small children so if you cannot put a child in the backseat, you may want to deactivate the airbag temporarily.

How Do Airbags Work?

An airbag is more than just the part that deploys. It is an entire system of sensors, a control module and the airbag itself. Sensors are located in various places in your vehicle that are commonly compromised when you have an accident. The sensors also monitor wheel speed sensors and data from the accelerometers plus other areas of the car. If the sensors receive certain information, they tell the airbag to deploy.

Where are the Airbags?

Airbags can be located in the dash, steering wheel, seats, door frames and other areas of the car. Initiator devices light chemical propellants to deploy the airbag when the sensors receive certain signals. When the propellant is ignited, the bag fills with nitrogen gas to force it from where it is stored. The entire process from ignition to deflation of the airbag can take less than 30 seconds. Once your airbag has deployed once, it must be replaced as all of the propellant is used to inflate the bag one time.

How Safe Are Airbags?

According to the National Highway Safety Administration, airbags deployed approximately 3.3 million times between 1990 and 2000. NHTSA estimated that more than 6,000 lives were saved by the deployment of airbags. However, they are activated by a chemical explosion and they inflate very fast. There have been instances where people were injured or killed by airbags, especially small children. In the time studied by NHTSA, 175 people died and many injured by airbag deployment. For this reason, children under the age of 13 should not be placed in the front seat of a car with an airbag. Passengers should not place their feet on the dash nor should they place objects between them and the airbag.

Changes in Airbag Technology

Airbags were first patented in 1951 but they did not become standard in vehicles in the United States until 1985. Although the basic principle is the same as it was in 1985, airbag technology has been refined. Today, there are “smart airbags” that inflate with less force if conditions are right, making them safer than older models. Newer systems also include a variety of airbags in other areas of the car to add more injury protection.

If your car has been in a collision, contact Elmer’s Auto Body today by calling or filling out the easy form to schedule an appointment.

Things that Damage Your Car’s Paint

Things that Damage Your Car’s Paint

When it comes to your car, one of the most common forms of damage (and thankfully one usually very reparable albeit at a cost), is to your paint job. Vehicle paint consists of various specialty formulae (they vary) and is applied through a very specialized set of processes that require professional training to wield properly.

Needless to say, over the over a century that vehicles have carried us about our hectic lives, there has been a lot of effort and science into creating durable paints that can stand up to the ravages of nature and damage afflicted by high-speed impacts with things like insects, debris and precipitation.

Unfortunately, no form of paint can be truly indestructible. Really, no form of anything can. You might be surprised at the things that can actually ruin your paint job. Some of them are things you’d think are temporary forms of “dirtiness” that merely require a loving wash to do away with. However, that is sadly not always the case.

In many instances, the longer these elements are present, the more damage they’re doing to your paint job, too. Knowing this, and the further danger to your vehicle’s longevity and resale value which can be brought about by compromised paint, it’s high time we look at five commonplace things that can cause serious damage to your paint.

Some of these may surprise you!

Tree Debris

On top of being a nuisance and a source of dirt, trees can do active damage to your paint job. Pollen usually only provides an annoying layer of crud to be washed off, but some breeds of this stuff can actually be abrasive, not unlike comet or some other granulated cleaning supply. This calls for caution and very gentle washing-away.

Furthermore, sap, which possesses sugars and organic acids, can eat away at your paint job as well. The acids are fairly obvious, eating at the enamel and base. The sugars can crystallize, resulting in the paint being pulled away when the sap is removed, or peeling as it expands and contracts from eating.

Acorns and other tree seeds/nuts can also act similarly to hail, causing dings or scratches that you really want to avoid. Avoid parking under trees, and keep your trees trimmed if at all possible.

Bird Droppings

Ah, the most infamous (and darkly-humorous) nemesis of a clean car – the bird dropping. Yes, we all know the woes of a freshly-washed car seeming to magnetically attract loaded avian nemeses. But, did you know that these droppings do more than just make your car dirty? Like tree sap, they contain acids, though these are quite a bit nastier than the ones coming from trees.

Originating in the digestive tracts of complex animals, these acids are designed to break pretty much anything down, and they will do precisely that to paint and metals alike. If a bird does what birds do, your aesthetic appreciation isn’t the only reason to wash it off immediately.

Bug Splatter

This one sits right next to bird droppings in the category of cliché problems for keeping cars clean, and is another “funny when it’s not you” situation. Bugs are usually a problem in the spring and summer and can be severe, depending on where you live.

Like bird droppings, bug splatter can actually cause damage to your paint job, due to organic acids being present. However, they can do more than this, because bugs are usually a high-energy impact. Anyone who’s had a bug hit their face on a motorcycle, or on an arm hanging from the window of a fast-moving vehicle can vouch for the fact it stings.

Most insects are actually fairly dense, rugged things that will also put dings or microscopic scratches into your paint, which will then be further exacerbated by that awful acidic organic soup.

Sunlight

Yes, even the sun is your car’s enemy. The sun doesn’t just put out warm light and heat. Considering that the sun, like all stars, is a massive, powerful nuclear reaction, spewing out intense radiation across the known spectrum. UV is one of the biggest offenders, and on top of causing sunburn and potentially cancer, UV can also fade and break down things like car paint.

To learn more about car paint care, and the forces stacked against you, fill out our contact form today.

Why Is My Car’s Paint Peeling?

Paint Peeling

Your car’s appearance is important to you, which is why you wash, wax and detail it on a regular basis. You apply touch-up paint to places where rocks may have caused scratches. Despite all your best efforts, you may have noticed some small areas where the paint seems to be peeling. Despite taking good care of your paint, other factors can lead to peeling paint on your car, a process known as delamination. If you don’t deal with the issue, your car could decrease in value.

Multiple Layers

Your vehicle has multiple layers on its surface. The first layer is primer which serves as a bases layer for the paint. It protects the metal and evens the surface so that paint adheres well. The next layer is the base coat. This consists of several layers which are applied carefully to give the car it’s unique coloring. Finally, a clear coat is added as a hard shell that keeps the car from rusting, a process known as oxidation, minor chips and scratches as well as to keep it protected from rain, snow, sleet, and other environmental issues.

Peeling Paint

When one or more of the layers stops binding to the surface below it, delamination can occur. If the primer stops adhering to the bare metal, the paint above it will begin to peel. This can lead to small circles of paint flaking from the surface of the car. There are two reasons why this could occur. If the factory made a mistake in the process or if a DIY paint job was not done correctly, there could be flaking. Chrysler, Ford and GM models manufactured in the late 1980s to mid-1990s experienced issues on the production line that led to premature paint delamination due to a problem in the factory. The second cause is a compromised paint seal due to a rock chip, ding or scratch. If the chip breaks through the paint seal, road salt and other contaminants can damage the paint.

Repairing Peeling Paint

The first thing is to determine the deepness of the peeled area. If the paint beneath the clear coat starts peeling badly, the problem is serious. You will want to address the affected area as quickly as possible. There is a possibility that the factory paint job was faulty. You will know this if the peeling is over the entire body. If the car was manufactured by GM, Chrysler or Ford in the early 1980s to mid-1990s, it may be a factory paint issue. The same is true if it was a DIY paint job. If either of these is the case, you will want to have the entire car repainted before the peeling gets significant.

If you have noticed peeling paint on your car, contact Elmer’s Auto Body today to schedule an appointment. You can do so by calling or filling out the easy form online.

Car Repairs: Independent Repair Shop vs. the Dealership

Car Repairs: Independent Repair Shop vs. the Dealership

When it comes to many common service industries on which we all reply, we tend to have blanket terms for handfuls of related types. “Construction” is a severe generalization, for example. The same can be said for “mechanic”, as people so very loosely use this to describe an independent mechanic shop or the team at their vehicle brand’s local dealership.

Well, they provide the same basic problem solving and services at the end of things. Your vehicle is repaired/inspected/maintained by trained professionals and specialized equipment. However, there are vast differences in the customer experience between these, and both have their strengths and weaknesses.

This results in an awkward scenario where there’s no one right answer. So, let’s take a look at both independent mechanics and dealerships. Some of these will be obvious, but others might just surprise you. At the end of this, hopefully, we’ll have guided you a bit in the direction of which choice works best for you.

Independent Mechanics

Independent mechanics are by their nature, smaller establishments. There are exceptions, as a couple of chains of large mechanic businesses exist in the United States, though their experience is a strange halfway between independent mechanics and dealerships.

Your typical legitimate independent mechanic will generally be calling the shots, having no company to answer to. This provides advantages in a lot of ways, which we’ll get to in a moment.
The biggest overall description of an independent mechanic is “down to earth”, or “personal”, compared to the consumer-optimized, commercial service dealerships offer. However, independent mechanics do have their disadvantages as well. So, let’s look at their strengths and weaknesses in a little more detail.

Pros

• Independent mechanics can have their better nature appealed to. This means it’s possible to haggle or find an honest mechanic who can actually give you a reasonable but still practical price.
• It’s a more personal interaction across the board. You talk directly to the people working on your vehicle, and you can ask questions, interject with important things about your car people wouldn’t necessarily know. You can be a little more involved, at least on the outset, with an independent mechanic.
• They will have very broad experience, working on many different vehicles, solving many different kinds of problems. This means that no matter what your vehicle is, within reason, they can probably work on it. This is contrary to dealerships, as we’ll see soon.

Cons

• They will often be busy with a lot of disparate problems, meaning it may take them a little bit longer than dealerships may be.
• They may have to order parts for your vehicle.
• They may not have equipment dealerships have access too.
• You can run into some hustlers if you’re not quick on your feet.

Dealerships

A dealership is a different beast altogether. Dealerships aren’t just about service and repairs – that’s actually a secondary function for them at best. They exist to sell vehicles, so most of their resources are dedicated to just that.

However, they do have a dedicated mechanic staff, which specializes in your brand of vehicle, which has its advantages. However, you’re unlikely to talk to the mechanics, an associate playing middle man. It’s very neatly packaged sterile consumer service.

Pros

• They almost certainly won’t have to order parts if your car is a common model in their brand.
• They tend to have the latest equipment, and the best expertise if your vehicle qualifies.
• They do provide a more comfortable space to conduct business and, if needed, wait. You’ll get a decent enough cup of coffee, a clean, well-lit place to wait with air conditioning.
• If you’ve got a lease and/or warranty, some repairs may not cost you anything.

Cons

• Prices are fixed at these places. They’re beholden to corporate.
• You can’t engage the mechanics.
• Associates are required to try to upsell you on something while you’re around.
• They specialize, and depending on your vehicle, that may just make them not an option.

To learn more, fill out our contact form today!

Automotive Leaks 101: How To Identify Different Types Of Car Leaks

Automotive Leaks 101: How To Identify Different Types Of Car Leaks

Today, let’s take a look at six different types of car leak, what can happen as a result, and how to identify them. It’s actually pretty amazing when you step back and look at just how many various fluids go into keeping your car on the road. It’s not just oil and fuel, that’s for sure!

Identifying the Type

The first thing to do is to identify the type of fluid leaking. Fortunately, these fluids tend to stand out in their viscosity and color, so once you know what you’re looking at, it’s easy to identify them.

  • Motor Oil – Motor oil is a dark brown oily substance that most people can readily identify.
  • Coolant – Coolant is usually blue, and has about the same consistency as thin antifreeze. It looks a lot like antifreeze really.
  • Transmission Fluid – Transmission fluid is a pinkish or reddish fluid with a consistency similar to coolant.
  • Power Steering Fluid – Power Steering fluid is yellowish or greenish in color, and has a thin oil consistency.
  • Battery Acid – Battery acid is identified by the corrosion and damage present. It eats away at the matter.
  • Brake Fluid – Brake fluid is a light amber hue or colorless, but very clearly not water.

Oil Leaks

These are very common, because of how circulated oil is, and how connected to the raw power of the engine it is as well. Oil leaks can result in oil getting into the fuel, parts not being lubricated properly, and much more.
Detect oil leaks by filling your oil, and then taking frequent measurements to see if it depletes too quickly.

Coolant/Antifreeze Leaks

These can be disastrous, as your engine can overheat and be severely damaged. Coolant lines run all over your engine like a circulatory system, so leaks can appear anywhere in your car’s mechanics, just about. That means you can’t always see these leaks without already looking for them.

If you think you have a coolant leak, the best way to check is to look in the overflow tank for the coolant. If it’s low or practically empty after recently filling it, also check your radiator. Remember, let your engine cool completely before opening the radiator – it’s a very hot, very pressurized environment otherwise.

If you also see no coolant in the radiator, you definitely have a leak somewhere.

Transmission Fluid Leaks

The first symptom of transmission fluid loss is your car revving without going into gear or pulling/being less responsive overall. This can burn your clutch over time, stall the vehicle, and possibly get you and others hurt. It needs to be addressed right away if it happens.

These leaks usually happen near the axle seals, which will cause your hub caps and wheels to have a tarnished, grimy appearance that’s easy to spot.

Power Steering Fluid Leaks

Power steering is critical to a vehicle handling smoothly and responsively. The wheel turns gently, which wouldn’t be possible without power steering. Obviously, this means that an early symptom of these leaks is the vehicle being less responsive and requiring increasing effort to operate.

The steering mechanism may also whine or make other loud noises, which is a further sign of loss of fluids. Check the seals on the racks, they’re easily accessed. This is where these leaks are likely to form.

Water Leaks

This is an extra bonus, but it warrants being addressed. This is a leak you actually want to happen, and it’s a result of your air conditioning. Humid, hot air, to which humans contribute, is collected and the water pulled from it by the AC. It’s then drained out a hose in the upper right-hand side of the car under the passenger seat.

Keeping recirculation turned on, can reduce this to a degree, and run the AC less hard.

To learn more about these leaks, and how to spot and address them, fill out our contact form today!

What Is The Best Oil For My Car?

If you have ever stood in an auto or department store and looked at the many different types of oil available, you know how confusing it can be too choose the right one out of the hundreds on the shelf. Choosing the right one can be confusing but it doesn’t have to be. The answer to what type you should buy is usually found right in your car’s manual.

Choosing Oil

What the manual will tell you is what weight oil is recommended for your vehicle. It may say something like “10W-30” or something similar. You want to choose an oil at that weight with a starburst symbol as this indicates it has been tested by the American Petroleum Institute (API). There is also a two-character service designation on the label which, today, would be “SL.” This refers to the engine and lab tests performed as well as control tests on high-temperature deposits.

Understanding Oil Labels

Inside the API label, you will see whether the oil meets the SL service rating. If your vehicle has a diesel engine, it will have a “C.” There is also an indication that the oil meets the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) Energy Conserving test. The starburst symbol on the label means that the oil has passed the tests listed by the API.

What is Viscosity?

Viscosity is a liquid’s resistance to flow. The number before the “W” represents the number above zero degrees Fahrenheit and the number after the “W” represents the number above 212 degrees. As motor oil cools, it thickens and as it warms, it thins. Additives help resist thinning so that the oil can be rated for one viscosity in cold weather and a different viscosity in warm weather. The more resistant it is to thinning, the higher the second number will be. In other words, 10W-40 oil will thin less quickly than 10W-30 oil. You want an oil that resists thickening because it flows better into the moving parts of your engine. If oil is too thick, it requires the engine to work harder to turn the crankshaft which is submerged in oil. This can make it harder to start your engine and reduce your fuel economy. If you live in an area that sees severe cold, you may need to use a 5W oil, although synthetic oils flow even more freely when cold so the 0W rating is not as important in those types of oils.

If you are confused about what type of oil to buy for your vehicle, let us do the work for you. Schedule an appointment today by calling or completing the easy online form.