Things that Damage Your Car’s Paint

Things that Damage Your Car’s Paint

When it comes to your car, one of the most common forms of damage (and thankfully one usually very reparable albeit at a cost), is to your paint job. Vehicle paint consists of various specialty formulae (they vary) and is applied through a very specialized set of processes that require professional training to wield properly.

Needless to say, over the over a century that vehicles have carried us about our hectic lives, there has been a lot of effort and science into creating durable paints that can stand up to the ravages of nature and damage afflicted by high-speed impacts with things like insects, debris and precipitation.

Unfortunately, no form of paint can be truly indestructible. Really, no form of anything can. You might be surprised at the things that can actually ruin your paint job. Some of them are things you’d think are temporary forms of “dirtiness” that merely require a loving wash to do away with. However, that is sadly not always the case.

In many instances, the longer these elements are present, the more damage they’re doing to your paint job, too. Knowing this, and the further danger to your vehicle’s longevity and resale value which can be brought about by compromised paint, it’s high time we look at five commonplace things that can cause serious damage to your paint.

Some of these may surprise you!

Tree Debris

On top of being a nuisance and a source of dirt, trees can do active damage to your paint job. Pollen usually only provides an annoying layer of crud to be washed off, but some breeds of this stuff can actually be abrasive, not unlike comet or some other granulated cleaning supply. This calls for caution and very gentle washing-away.

Furthermore, sap, which possesses sugars and organic acids, can eat away at your paint job as well. The acids are fairly obvious, eating at the enamel and base. The sugars can crystallize, resulting in the paint being pulled away when the sap is removed, or peeling as it expands and contracts from eating.

Acorns and other tree seeds/nuts can also act similarly to hail, causing dings or scratches that you really want to avoid. Avoid parking under trees, and keep your trees trimmed if at all possible.

Bird Droppings

Ah, the most infamous (and darkly-humorous) nemesis of a clean car – the bird dropping. Yes, we all know the woes of a freshly-washed car seeming to magnetically attract loaded avian nemeses. But, did you know that these droppings do more than just make your car dirty? Like tree sap, they contain acids, though these are quite a bit nastier than the ones coming from trees.

Originating in the digestive tracts of complex animals, these acids are designed to break pretty much anything down, and they will do precisely that to paint and metals alike. If a bird does what birds do, your aesthetic appreciation isn’t the only reason to wash it off immediately.

Bug Splatter

This one sits right next to bird droppings in the category of cliché problems for keeping cars clean, and is another “funny when it’s not you” situation. Bugs are usually a problem in the spring and summer and can be severe, depending on where you live.

Like bird droppings, bug splatter can actually cause damage to your paint job, due to organic acids being present. However, they can do more than this, because bugs are usually a high-energy impact. Anyone who’s had a bug hit their face on a motorcycle, or on an arm hanging from the window of a fast-moving vehicle can vouch for the fact it stings.

Most insects are actually fairly dense, rugged things that will also put dings or microscopic scratches into your paint, which will then be further exacerbated by that awful acidic organic soup.

Sunlight

Yes, even the sun is your car’s enemy. The sun doesn’t just put out warm light and heat. Considering that the sun, like all stars, is a massive, powerful nuclear reaction, spewing out intense radiation across the known spectrum. UV is one of the biggest offenders, and on top of causing sunburn and potentially cancer, UV can also fade and break down things like car paint.

To learn more about car paint care, and the forces stacked against you, fill out our contact form today.

Why Is My Car’s Paint Peeling?

Paint Peeling

Your car’s appearance is important to you, which is why you wash, wax and detail it on a regular basis. You apply touch-up paint to places where rocks may have caused scratches. Despite all your best efforts, you may have noticed some small areas where the paint seems to be peeling. Despite taking good care of your paint, other factors can lead to peeling paint on your car, a process known as delamination. If you don’t deal with the issue, your car could decrease in value.

Multiple Layers

Your vehicle has multiple layers on its surface. The first layer is primer which serves as a bases layer for the paint. It protects the metal and evens the surface so that paint adheres well. The next layer is the base coat. This consists of several layers which are applied carefully to give the car it’s unique coloring. Finally, a clear coat is added as a hard shell that keeps the car from rusting, a process known as oxidation, minor chips and scratches as well as to keep it protected from rain, snow, sleet, and other environmental issues.

Peeling Paint

When one or more of the layers stops binding to the surface below it, delamination can occur. If the primer stops adhering to the bare metal, the paint above it will begin to peel. This can lead to small circles of paint flaking from the surface of the car. There are two reasons why this could occur. If the factory made a mistake in the process or if a DIY paint job was not done correctly, there could be flaking. Chrysler, Ford and GM models manufactured in the late 1980s to mid-1990s experienced issues on the production line that led to premature paint delamination due to a problem in the factory. The second cause is a compromised paint seal due to a rock chip, ding or scratch. If the chip breaks through the paint seal, road salt and other contaminants can damage the paint.

Repairing Peeling Paint

The first thing is to determine the deepness of the peeled area. If the paint beneath the clear coat starts peeling badly, the problem is serious. You will want to address the affected area as quickly as possible. There is a possibility that the factory paint job was faulty. You will know this if the peeling is over the entire body. If the car was manufactured by GM, Chrysler or Ford in the early 1980s to mid-1990s, it may be a factory paint issue. The same is true if it was a DIY paint job. If either of these is the case, you will want to have the entire car repainted before the peeling gets significant.

If you have noticed peeling paint on your car, contact Elmer’s Auto Body today to schedule an appointment. You can do so by calling or filling out the easy form online.

Car Repairs: Independent Repair Shop vs. the Dealership

Car Repairs: Independent Repair Shop vs. the Dealership

When it comes to many common service industries on which we all reply, we tend to have blanket terms for handfuls of related types. “Construction” is a severe generalization, for example. The same can be said for “mechanic”, as people so very loosely use this to describe an independent mechanic shop or the team at their vehicle brand’s local dealership.

Well, they provide the same basic problem solving and services at the end of things. Your vehicle is repaired/inspected/maintained by trained professionals and specialized equipment. However, there are vast differences in the customer experience between these, and both have their strengths and weaknesses.

This results in an awkward scenario where there’s no one right answer. So, let’s take a look at both independent mechanics and dealerships. Some of these will be obvious, but others might just surprise you. At the end of this, hopefully, we’ll have guided you a bit in the direction of which choice works best for you.

Independent Mechanics

Independent mechanics are by their nature, smaller establishments. There are exceptions, as a couple of chains of large mechanic businesses exist in the United States, though their experience is a strange halfway between independent mechanics and dealerships.

Your typical legitimate independent mechanic will generally be calling the shots, having no company to answer to. This provides advantages in a lot of ways, which we’ll get to in a moment.
The biggest overall description of an independent mechanic is “down to earth”, or “personal”, compared to the consumer-optimized, commercial service dealerships offer. However, independent mechanics do have their disadvantages as well. So, let’s look at their strengths and weaknesses in a little more detail.

Pros

• Independent mechanics can have their better nature appealed to. This means it’s possible to haggle or find an honest mechanic who can actually give you a reasonable but still practical price.
• It’s a more personal interaction across the board. You talk directly to the people working on your vehicle, and you can ask questions, interject with important things about your car people wouldn’t necessarily know. You can be a little more involved, at least on the outset, with an independent mechanic.
• They will have very broad experience, working on many different vehicles, solving many different kinds of problems. This means that no matter what your vehicle is, within reason, they can probably work on it. This is contrary to dealerships, as we’ll see soon.

Cons

• They will often be busy with a lot of disparate problems, meaning it may take them a little bit longer than dealerships may be.
• They may have to order parts for your vehicle.
• They may not have equipment dealerships have access too.
• You can run into some hustlers if you’re not quick on your feet.

Dealerships

A dealership is a different beast altogether. Dealerships aren’t just about service and repairs – that’s actually a secondary function for them at best. They exist to sell vehicles, so most of their resources are dedicated to just that.

However, they do have a dedicated mechanic staff, which specializes in your brand of vehicle, which has its advantages. However, you’re unlikely to talk to the mechanics, an associate playing middle man. It’s very neatly packaged sterile consumer service.

Pros

• They almost certainly won’t have to order parts if your car is a common model in their brand.
• They tend to have the latest equipment, and the best expertise if your vehicle qualifies.
• They do provide a more comfortable space to conduct business and, if needed, wait. You’ll get a decent enough cup of coffee, a clean, well-lit place to wait with air conditioning.
• If you’ve got a lease and/or warranty, some repairs may not cost you anything.

Cons

• Prices are fixed at these places. They’re beholden to corporate.
• You can’t engage the mechanics.
• Associates are required to try to upsell you on something while you’re around.
• They specialize, and depending on your vehicle, that may just make them not an option.

To learn more, fill out our contact form today!

Automotive Leaks 101: How To Identify Different Types Of Car Leaks

Automotive Leaks 101: How To Identify Different Types Of Car Leaks

Today, let’s take a look at six different types of car leak, what can happen as a result, and how to identify them. It’s actually pretty amazing when you step back and look at just how many various fluids go into keeping your car on the road. It’s not just oil and fuel, that’s for sure!

Identifying the Type

The first thing to do is to identify the type of fluid leaking. Fortunately, these fluids tend to stand out in their viscosity and color, so once you know what you’re looking at, it’s easy to identify them.

  • Motor Oil – Motor oil is a dark brown oily substance that most people can readily identify.
  • Coolant – Coolant is usually blue, and has about the same consistency as thin antifreeze. It looks a lot like antifreeze really.
  • Transmission Fluid – Transmission fluid is a pinkish or reddish fluid with a consistency similar to coolant.
  • Power Steering Fluid – Power Steering fluid is yellowish or greenish in color, and has a thin oil consistency.
  • Battery Acid – Battery acid is identified by the corrosion and damage present. It eats away at the matter.
  • Brake Fluid – Brake fluid is a light amber hue or colorless, but very clearly not water.

Oil Leaks

These are very common, because of how circulated oil is, and how connected to the raw power of the engine it is as well. Oil leaks can result in oil getting into the fuel, parts not being lubricated properly, and much more.
Detect oil leaks by filling your oil, and then taking frequent measurements to see if it depletes too quickly.

Coolant/Antifreeze Leaks

These can be disastrous, as your engine can overheat and be severely damaged. Coolant lines run all over your engine like a circulatory system, so leaks can appear anywhere in your car’s mechanics, just about. That means you can’t always see these leaks without already looking for them.

If you think you have a coolant leak, the best way to check is to look in the overflow tank for the coolant. If it’s low or practically empty after recently filling it, also check your radiator. Remember, let your engine cool completely before opening the radiator – it’s a very hot, very pressurized environment otherwise.

If you also see no coolant in the radiator, you definitely have a leak somewhere.

Transmission Fluid Leaks

The first symptom of transmission fluid loss is your car revving without going into gear or pulling/being less responsive overall. This can burn your clutch over time, stall the vehicle, and possibly get you and others hurt. It needs to be addressed right away if it happens.

These leaks usually happen near the axle seals, which will cause your hub caps and wheels to have a tarnished, grimy appearance that’s easy to spot.

Power Steering Fluid Leaks

Power steering is critical to a vehicle handling smoothly and responsively. The wheel turns gently, which wouldn’t be possible without power steering. Obviously, this means that an early symptom of these leaks is the vehicle being less responsive and requiring increasing effort to operate.

The steering mechanism may also whine or make other loud noises, which is a further sign of loss of fluids. Check the seals on the racks, they’re easily accessed. This is where these leaks are likely to form.

Water Leaks

This is an extra bonus, but it warrants being addressed. This is a leak you actually want to happen, and it’s a result of your air conditioning. Humid, hot air, to which humans contribute, is collected and the water pulled from it by the AC. It’s then drained out a hose in the upper right-hand side of the car under the passenger seat.

Keeping recirculation turned on, can reduce this to a degree, and run the AC less hard.

To learn more about these leaks, and how to spot and address them, fill out our contact form today!

What Is The Best Oil For My Car?

If you have ever stood in an auto or department store and looked at the many different types of oil available, you know how confusing it can be too choose the right one out of the hundreds on the shelf. Choosing the right one can be confusing but it doesn’t have to be. The answer to what type you should buy is usually found right in your car’s manual.

Choosing Oil

What the manual will tell you is what weight oil is recommended for your vehicle. It may say something like “10W-30” or something similar. You want to choose an oil at that weight with a starburst symbol as this indicates it has been tested by the American Petroleum Institute (API). There is also a two-character service designation on the label which, today, would be “SL.” This refers to the engine and lab tests performed as well as control tests on high-temperature deposits.

Understanding Oil Labels

Inside the API label, you will see whether the oil meets the SL service rating. If your vehicle has a diesel engine, it will have a “C.” There is also an indication that the oil meets the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) Energy Conserving test. The starburst symbol on the label means that the oil has passed the tests listed by the API.

What is Viscosity?

Viscosity is a liquid’s resistance to flow. The number before the “W” represents the number above zero degrees Fahrenheit and the number after the “W” represents the number above 212 degrees. As motor oil cools, it thickens and as it warms, it thins. Additives help resist thinning so that the oil can be rated for one viscosity in cold weather and a different viscosity in warm weather. The more resistant it is to thinning, the higher the second number will be. In other words, 10W-40 oil will thin less quickly than 10W-30 oil. You want an oil that resists thickening because it flows better into the moving parts of your engine. If oil is too thick, it requires the engine to work harder to turn the crankshaft which is submerged in oil. This can make it harder to start your engine and reduce your fuel economy. If you live in an area that sees severe cold, you may need to use a 5W oil, although synthetic oils flow even more freely when cold so the 0W rating is not as important in those types of oils.

If you are confused about what type of oil to buy for your vehicle, let us do the work for you. Schedule an appointment today by calling or completing the easy online form.

New Car VS Used Car: The Pros & Cons

When it is time to replace your car you may be tempted to rush out and buy a brand new one with all the bells and whistles. The fact is that you need to look closely at whether a new car is necessary or a good used car would provide you with the same benefits. The average car costs over $30,000 and the average person purchases 13 cars over their lifetime. Imagine the money you could save if instead of buying 13 new cars, you chose 13 gently used vehicles.

New Car Depreciation

New cars begin to depreciate the minute you drive them from the lot. Within minutes, the car you just spent $30,000 to buy will lose $6,000 in value. By the end of that year, your car will be worth 30 percent less, or $9,000. By the end of three years, depreciation can be almost half what you paid for the car. If you buy a car new for $30,000 and sell it three years later for $15,000, you have essentially lost $15,000 due to depreciation. If you had purchased that same car used for $15,000, three years later you could sell it for $10,000 as depreciation slows as the car ages. That means the car only cost you $5,000 in depreciation costs.

Used Car Stigma

In the past, buying a used car was referred to as “buying someone else’s problems.” There are two reasons why this is not true any longer. Today, cars are far more dependable than they used to be. In fact, it is not unusual for a car to go more than 100,000 and not need any major repair. As long as the previous owner kept up with regular maintenance like oil changes, tire rotation and brakes, a used car is just as reliable as a new car. In addition, many cars can go much longer between routine maintenance with some manufacturers recommending oil changes every 10,000 miles rather than every 3,000 like older models required.

Money Savings

There are several money-saving reasons why you should consider a used car as well. Often, a used car costs less to insure as the car has lower value. In some states that use the value of the car to determine the cost for registration, your renewal rates could be lower each year. Used cars often have lower prices so a more expensive model may cost the same as a less expensive model than if you purchased new.

Benefits to New Cars

Although there are many benefits to buying a used car, purchasing a new vehicle also has some benefits as well. You don’t need to have a new car evaluated by a mechanic and it is easier to figure out what you should pay for the car. Automakers often offer incentives to encourage buyers to choose new vehicles and new car loans often have better interest rates than used cars. Depending on how old the used car is, you may not be able to get advanced technology like built-in GPS, USB ports or Bluetooth capability like you can in a new car. Although some dealers offer limited warranties on used cars, if your new car has an issue in the first 36,000 or three years, the warranty will cover any repair.

If you are considering a car purchase, bring your current vehicle into our shop for a complete review. If you have decided to purchase a used car, our mechanics are happy to take a look at the vehicle before you buy and identify any problems you could encounter. Schedule an appointment today by calling or filling out the easy online form.