Category: Maintenance

Electric cars. They’ve been an artifact of “future life” since the 1950s, and there have been conspiracy theories for decades claiming that effective, powerful electric cars have been suppressed by the oil companies. Is that true? Who knows. What matters is that they’re here now, and they’re catching on. This is a good thing. Fossil fuels are expensive, dirty to extract, and even dirtier to burn.

In a surprising change of tune, there have been incentives lately to provide tax credits for electric cars, but like any tax credit or regulation, it’s confusing and overwrought. Are you unsure if your plug-in electric vehicle qualifies for these tax credits? Are you uncertain how much of a credit this earns you?

You are far from the only one. Let’s take a look at a simple guide to electric car tax credit in simple, certain terms and demystify this nonsense, shall we?

So How Much Credit Do I Get?

That’s a big question, isn’t it? They’re always so vague with “up to a certain amount” as the listing for tax credits, just as they do for savings and deals. The government is a business, and they know all the ins and outs of vague but effective marketing and wording to incentivize we unwilling customers.

But, truth be told, “up to” does have a significance as an upper bound limit, but also as criteria to qualify. Generally, the flat rate is up to $7,500 but, that’s only the case if your taxes add up to this amount or more. If there isn’t sufficient tax cost to deduct, you can bet the government’s not going to give away funds.

It gets more complicated depending on how you obtained your vehicle. If you bought it flat out, then this arrangement is between you and the federal government, which minimizes the complication and variables present.
However, if you’re leasing your vehicle, the lease provider/dealership is the middle man, and you can expect your tax credit to be reduced. They too have their fingers in the pie. Finally, your battery capacity also affects the quality of this credit, with a higher battery capacity (requiring fewer recharges) netting you a significantly higher percentage in tax credit.

The Fine Print

So, surprise, surprise, there are various bits of fine print and legal provisos that have an effect on this as well. It’s not entirely devastating, but being aware of these going in will help prevent surprised.

• Battery packs must rate at least 4 kWh to qualify.
• Vehicles being purchased for resale do not qualify.
• The vehicle must be used in the USA.
• Only qualified manufacturers qualify.
• If you’re leasing, the lender/dealer can intervene and cap your credit.
• The IRS has a strict set of criteria and qualified manufacturers that may or may not include your model or some component in it.
• The IRS is an evil organization, and they can reject your claim on a whim.

Do These Run Out?

Oh yes, they certainly do. This tax credit is an incentive to put more electric vehicles on the road, in an effort to gradually phase out internal combustion over the course of this century. As more of these vehicles are purchased, these credits will diminish in scope, and eventually become unavailable entirely.

Can These Be Passed On?

This has a simple answer, unlike most of this. No, they cannot be passed on. If you gift an EV, or resell it, the tax credit is null and void, and the owner will almost certainly be unable to place a new claim.

What of Hybrids and Clean-Diesel?

These once had tax credits of their own, but due to their massive presence on the roads now, and their falling prey to obsolescence to true EVs, these tax credits have long expired.

State or Federal?

This depends on what state you live in, whether or not there is an additional state tax credit alongside the federal case. In the states of California, Oregon, and Washington, there are state-level tax credits provided for select vehicles. However, in some other states, this is not the case. You can make your own conclusions as to the relation of majority political alignment per state, with which ones most incentivize these clean technologies.
Some programs out there do provide interactive maps to show where these overlaps exist.

Fuel Cell Cars?

Sorry, no. Unless you bought your vehicle before January 1, 2017, you are not eligible for tax credits on hydrogen cell vehicles.

To learn more about these tax credits, and see some specific examples of credit returns for specific prices and vehicles, fill out our contact form below.

Don’t lie. You’ve lost car keys before. We all have, at some point in our lives as drivers, lost our keys. It’s rarely due to carelessness. Drop them in the snow or down a grate? Fumble for your phone in a hurry to have them fall out of your pocket? Kids run off with them not realizing the ramifications? Yeah, this kind of thing just happens sometimes.

In the past, it was an expense, sure, but as technologies have evolved to make your car keys more convenient and secure, the cost of key replacements has skyrocketed significantly. It’s an inevitability. A saw-cut piece of metal’s only going to cost you parts and labor to have a new one cut. But newer technologies like keyless remote systems, transponders, smart keys and the like? That’s some hefty technology, and very involved to replace.

Let’s do a run down on what your new set of keys is going to run you, depending on what you’ve got.

Basics

So, you think you’ve got a basic set of keys? You can tell if the shank (the long metal part that goes into locks) will have simple grooves that are easy for a skilled locksmith to copy. These are affordable running you around $3.00 for a locksmith to make you a set.

If you have a fob (or remote/transmitter), that’s going to cost you a good bit more. These can run between $50-$90 depending on model, complexity and signal security measures. There do exist other options though, for aftermarket fob offerings that can significantly reduce the cost.

You can find out the specifications of your fob by going online and looking up your make and model of vehicle (provided you didn’t install a secondary system after market to begin with).

Transponder Keys

Transponder keys came along in the mid-90s, but became a standard after the turn of the century. These contain a simple chip that, once plugged, unlocks the ignition. Without the transponder, the ignition simply won’t work. This is an added measure to prevent fraudulent copies of keys from letting people make off with the vehicle.

These can be very pricey or very cheap, depending. Going to a dealership can run you prices like $160, while locksmiths capable of creating these transponder keys, will charge you something closer to $20-$30.

A search online can teach you tricks with an existing key, to program a copied key from a blacksmith, with a little online research.

Laser-Cut Keys

These are the modern take on a classic key, with a winding, less toothy shank. These are going to be more expensive, due to the equipment needed to cut them being very pricy. Not all locksmiths have this equipment, and it’s going to run you between $150-$250 to have one of these replaced.

Switchblade Keys

Switchblade keys fold into the fob, making them a single unit. These are increasingly common, and they can cost you a little as $80, but more often between $200-$300 due to their form factor and the second generation remote technology in them.

Smart Keys

Smart keys are a whole different ballgame, more like a USB encryption key/thumb drive, that allows push-button ignition. This was novel a few years ago, and is most common in things like Mercedes-Benz and other higher-end cars.

They’re becoming more common though, and are likely going to be the standard within 10 years or so. The problem with these is, they’re painfully expensive, costing up to $400 to replace, and it can be hard to find a locksmith that can, opting for a dealership’s extortion to solve the problem. Oh my.

Is It Worth It?

Is all of this expensive, hard-to-replace technology worth it? Well, ultimately, yes. Since the invention of these newer technologies, the rate of car thefts and break ins have significantly decreased by major statistics. Security is worth it, just be more careful with your keys, knowing how costly they can be to replace!

To learn more about car key types, and the advantages of these technologies, fill out our contact form below.

Don’t blow a gasket! This is a term everyone is familiar with in the English-speaking world, extending its meaning and ramifications well beyond auto culture by a large factor. But, what exactly does it mean to blow a gasket?

What exactly is a gasket, and what does it do?

The precise purpose and nature of these components, for all their importance and criticality, eludes most people who lack a deeper knowledge of automotive sciences. This is understandable, but this information is probably something everyone who drives a vehicle should actually know.

That in mind, we’re going to take a look at what gaskets are, what they do, and why blowing a head gasket is such a catastrophic issue calling for an immediate resolution. We’ll also look at the obvious symptoms of failed gaskets.

What Are Head Gaskets

Head Gaskets themselves are a ring of belted steel, copper or other durable but flexible metal, coated in rubber or a silica compound of some sort. They’re intended to provide a persistent seal as well provide some padding for higher-impact parts of your vehicle. They can break down due to a number of reasons.

The main thing that kills gaskets is simple, wear and tear. While they have some bounce-back from impact, over time, the silica/rubber coating loses this elasticity and can even wear off. Another common gasket killer is build-up of “crud”.

What Do Head Gaskets Do?

Head gaskets provide critical seals to contain fluids such as oil, coolant, and fuel, as well as to contain the combustion of fuel. They also provide extra padding for cylinders in some engines.

Symptoms of Blown Head Gaskets

If one or more of your head gaskets fails, there are some very detectable symptoms, none of which are good.

• White Exhaust – Exhaust is usually mostly transparent. If there is very visible white smoke exiting the exhaust pipe, it means water and coolant are getting into the ignition chambers. Steam and burning glycol have a very thick, white appearance.
• Overheating – If your engine is consistently overheating, this means you’re losing coolant, which is another substance head gaskets help to contain.
• Visible Coolant Leaks – Coolant can escape beneath the exhaust manifold, and is very visible if it does so.
• Rapidly Diminishing Coolant – Coolant may not visibly leak, due to being evaporated or possibly pooling somewhere. If the coolant is diminishing at an alarming rate, its gasket may be blown.
• Poor Running Engine – If your engine’s performance has suffered a severe drop, this is very likely the primary cause as fuel efficiency has reduced due to the primary cylinder head gaskets being blown.

Prevention not Response

The best way to ensure that these and other gasket-related symptoms do not occur is to avoid overheating your engine. Ensure it’s vented properly and not strained beyond its proper rating by overpowered fuel etc. Heat is the biggest gasket killer, as pointed out previously.

To learn more about the various gaskets and their important functions, fill out the contact form below to stay in the know!

Fuel additives are big business. For nearly every make and model of engine out there, there seem to be two or three kinds of fuel additives promising higher fuel efficiency/economy, greater power from fuel, greater longevity for your engine and related systems, et cetera.

But, do they actually work? Will these seemingly magical elixirs actually enhance fuel so that engines live longer, gas gets more bang for its buck, and the car somehow performs so much better? What even are these compounds, and how are they supposed to achieve these things?

Let’s demystify fuel additives, and examine if they really do improve things all that much. Both supporters and detractors both will be surprised by the findings!

Types of Fuel Additives

For a start, there are several different types of fuel additives, each with a specific purpose. This doesn’t help reduce the confusion and skepticism involving these substances at all. Some are even mixtures of one or more of these additives as well.

Let’s start by taking a look at the four basic types of additives and what they’re intended to do.

• Octane Boosters – Octane boosters serve the purpose most often associated with fuel additives, by increasing the octane rating of a given fuel. In other words, they’re intended to boost the performance of the fuel. This is theoretically accomplished by adding additional catalyzers that produce more energy as the fuel combusts. They also usually contain lubricants to protect cast-iron valves used heavily in older classic models of vehicle.
• Fuel Injector Cleaners – Fuel injector cleaners are intended to do just that; clean and flush the fuel injectors and fuel lines. This is done using inert chemicals that break down build-up and deposits.
• Fuel Stabilizers – Fuel stabilizers aren’t intended to affect performance while a vehicle is running. They’re actually intended to lengthen the shelf life of fuel in the tank during long periods of the vehicle not running. Many people don’t know that gasoline and diesel actually go bad and begin to separate over time. These provide bonding agents which stabilize the complex molecules in these fuels.
• Anti-Gel Diesel Additives – Not unlike standard fuel stabilizers, these provide compounds which prevent diesel from separating and gelling, which is a common issue during cold conditions.

Knowing a bit about what these difference additives do, it becomes easier to choose which ones, if any, you might need. These can effectively help reduce maintenance issues, reduce wear and tear on critical systems and keep your fuel as performant as can be.

When choosing, make a point to seek out additives containing polybutene amine (PBA), a very effective compound which cleans deposits out from fuel injectors, intake valves, and carburetors.

So Will this Improve My Fuel Economy?

The short answer to this is no. While additives can help preserve fuel longevity and reduce how much wear and tear a vehicle endures, EPA testing of over 100 products (claiming to improve fuel economy by 12 or more percent) showed that direct impact on fuel economy is negligible.

However, indirect impact is another story, showing that their ability to stabilize fuel and help keep engines clean meant that fuel use was optimal with less waste and performance loss.

Be Careful

Avoid overusing additives, using only the ones whose purposes are crucial to your needs. While the EPA discovered that additives don’t in fact harm engines, overuse of multiple compounds can have unpredictable effects.

To learn more about fuel economy, the stimuli which affect it and more about fuel additives, fill out the contact form to stay informed!

If your car battery is going bad, there are usually symptoms before it goes completely dead. Although it is possible for your car battery to go dead with no warning, keeping a close eye on your battery may help you avoid problems. Preventive battery maintenance can prolong your battery life and help keep you from being stranded on the side of the road.

Age of Your Battery

One of the first things to look for when you are determining how well your battery is working is how old your battery is. There is a label on the top of your battery with punch-outs that show you the month and year it was purchased. If your battery is more than four years old, you may want to consider replacing it, even if it is working fine.

Slower Engine Crank

If you have noticed that your engine starts slower than it used to or if you hear a long, whirring sound before you start the engine, this is known as slow engine crank. It can be an indication that your battery is starting to go bad.

Other Bad Battery Symptoms

If you notice corrosion on your battery or the terminals, it is a sign you should replace the battery. You may also notice that your battery fails when the weather is cooler. In most cases, a jump start can get your car running again, but this is a temporary solution. When you start noticing symptoms, it is time to begin searching for a replacement battery.

Totally Dead Battery

There are times when a battery will die with no warning and it may not start even with jumper cables or a battery charger. If a cell in the battery fails, the battery will no longer charge. One way to check is to use a voltage meter to determine if there is voltage in the battery. If there is none, you will need to purchase a new battery.

What if it is Not the Battery?

It is possible that the battery is not the problem at all. A bad alternator can have the same symptoms as a dying battery. One way to determine if it is the alternator is to start your car and run it for a while. Disconnect the positive connection between the alternator and battery. If the alternator is working properly, your battery is unnecessary while the car is running as the alternator is supplying the power you need to operate the vehicle. If the car stops running, that is a sure indication that your alternator is the problem.

If you have been involved in an accident and have noticed problems with your car starting or corrosion on your battery terminals, call today for a no obligation inspection or fill out the simple form online.

Your brakes are one of the most important safety features of your vehicle and they need to be well-maintained to perform at their best level. The main parts of your brakes include the caliper, pads and rotor. The rotor and pads will wear out on your car, but how they wear varies depending on a number of factors.

What Determines How Quickly Your Brakes Wear?

There are several different factors that can impact the lifespan of your brakes. Your driving habits affect your brakes the most. If you press your brakes hard regularly or if you tend to ride your brakes while you drive, your brakes may wear more often. Smooth gradual braking improves the lifespan of your brakes. If most of your driving is in the city, stop-and-go traffic, multiple traffic lights and slower moving traffic will shorten your brake lifespan. Driving in mountainous areas with steep changes in elevation can also wear out your brakes more quickly.

Do Your Brakes Need Replacing?

The general rule is that brakes need to be replaced every 50,000 miles although some manufacturers recommend every 25,000 miles. If you don’t do much city driving, brake abruptly or drive in mountains, you may be able to go as long as every 70,000 miles before you need to change your brakes. You can ask your mechanic to look at your brakes when you have the tires rotated or the oil changed. If you hear squealing or scraping noises, your brake pads may be getting to the end of their life. If your car jitters when you brake, your rotors may be warped. In some cases, the rotor can be straightened, but it is often less expensive to simply replace the rotor.

Brake Materials

Another factor that can determine how often you need to replace your brakes is the material of your brake pads. If your brake pads are hard, they may last longer, but they are more common in performance cars and must be warm before they work well. Soft brake pads work best in city driving, but too much heat can melt the pad compound and reduce performance. Carbon-ceramic brakes last longer than metal, but they also need to be warm to work properly. Carbon-ceramic brakes are also much more expensive than metal brakes which is why they are often only found on performance cars.

If you’ve been involved in an accident, call us today to set up an appointment or complete the simple form online. We can perform a no obligation inspection and get your brakes back into perfect working condition quickly.